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Post by arewelost on Aug 31, 2024 16:17:17 GMT 10
Does anyone have experience with cheap 12v pumps to change Auto fluid?
Or, with a manual vacuum oil change pump. I have used these before. The downside is they only extract oil. I would have to gravity feed/syphon the new ATF. But with a length of 10-12 mm plastic tubing I think it would flow easily enough.
My Ford Ranger 3.2L auto is not supposed to need an ATF change until 10 years or 240,000 kilometres. Mine has only done 63,000, but almost half has been towing my heavyish van. The dealer price for the job is $465.
Doing the job properly entails dropping the sump. While lying underneath this would be hard to do without making quite a mess. There is no drain plug. I am planning to do it with a 12v pump sucking the ATF out via the dipstick/fill hole. In the 6R80 transmission it's low down and awkward .... but apparently a DIY job. Dropping the sump would enable more of the old oil to be drained away as well as better inspection for metal, and ability to replace the filter. But doing it early with at least half the ATF changed seems a reasonable compromise to me.
So, to the question..... has anyone comments on these choices of pump or doing the job?
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rgren2
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by rgren2 on Aug 31, 2024 19:04:46 GMT 10
Sometimes it’s safer to let the experts do it. You stuff up it’s big $’s, they stuff up, they pay. It’s like playing with electricity, if you have to ask, you arnt qualified.
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Post by Mike Harding on Sept 1, 2024 5:23:28 GMT 10
I have to say this does sound a little like one of my "Brilliant Ideas #xxx!" :)
It may well work and be successful but if you have problems it'll be an expensive disaster. At $465, probably two hours labour plus fluid, I'd let the dealer do that one.
A terrible idea to produce sealed auto boxes.
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Post by arewelost on Sept 1, 2024 22:01:06 GMT 10
I think the naysayer comments are unjustified. I am only changing oil, not doing rocket surgery. Over the years I have probably done well over 100 oil changes. I have removed, disassembled and reassembled a few engines, a couple of gearboxes and diffs. Replaced seals in brake calipers and master cylinders and much more. So changing ATF will be a doddle.
In fact, I would have more confidence that the job will be done right with me doing it than some apprentice at the dealer or other workshop. Will the mechanic take the same care to clean off the inlet so grit does not get in, or put in the correct amount of ATF? I doubt it.
Sure, if the dealer blunders and the transmission blows up as I drive it out, then I would probably receive a nice new shiny one at their expense. But if it failed after 1000km do you think they would do the same? Hardly.
So, 170,000 before it is scheduled I will do the job. I had already bought the ATF before posting here. Maybe in another 60-80,000 kilometres if I am still above ground and if I still have the vehicle, I will get the dealer to do the full job because that can be pretty messy.
The question was more about choice of pump. I am leaning towards the manual vacuum pump (used one multiple times before) and gravity feeding the new ATF. Maybe I will warm it a little to improve viscosity, with the benefit of more closely matching the temperature of the existing ATF, thus helping to get the level exactly the same.
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Post by Mike Harding on Sept 2, 2024 9:44:00 GMT 10
I wasn't questioning your competence but rather the viability of gravity refilling via the dipstick tube.
Let us know how it goes
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Post by arewelost on Sept 2, 2024 10:39:26 GMT 10
There is no dipstick tube. Perhaps I should have explained it better. On the transmission itself there is a removable plug that holds the short stubby dipstick. You could almost put a finger in and feel the fluid.
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rgren2
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by rgren2 on Sept 2, 2024 11:13:59 GMT 10
There is no dipstick tube. Perhaps I should have explained it better. On the transmission itself there is a removable plug that holds the short stubby dipstick. You could almost put a finger in and feel the fluid. Well, that’s a different ballgame then, just tip it on its side and pour it out, then tip it the other way to fill it up.  . |
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Post by Mike Harding on Sept 2, 2024 12:44:08 GMT 10
OK, understood. I was thinking of a long thin tube/dipstick such as for engine oil.
You mentioned only being able to change half (or whatever) the oil: I don't know what happens chemically to the oil if you do that; does it become half new? Or does it make no difference?
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Post by arewelost on Sept 2, 2024 14:04:15 GMT 10
I found a good video that clearly shows the dipstick and drain/fill point. Skip forward to 1:00 minute. In a Ranger the dispstick is marked with hot and cold fill points.
As for what the new mixed oil will be like, I believe I should get about 6 litres out of the 9 litre capacity. So there will only be one third of the impurities after the change.
But I am planning on using rgren2's tongue in cheek idea and tip it on its side. Partly anyway. The drain/fill is at the RH front. So after the pump sucks air, jack up the left rear and maybe I can get a little more.
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